Versatility of Soft Plastic Swimbaits

The Versatility of the Soft Plastic Swimbait 

Big Bass Baits, Jig Trailers and in between, the Soft Plastic Swim Bait Can do it All 

By: Glenn Walker

When you say the word swimbait around a bass fisherman, many times their thoughts go to big baits that cost a lot of money and only work for targeting big bass.  However, the soft plastic swimbait is also a great lure option to target big bass in a variety of fish holding cover.   

The soft plastic swimbait has also evolved into a versatile option to present bass with a natural presentation in numerous situations. 

One of the ways that soft plastic swimbaits, both solid and hollow bodied can be rigged is on a Texas-rig.  By rigging your baits this way you are able to fish the bait through heavy cover, thus presenting a very natural looking presentation in the dense cover that bass live in.   

Some of the areas that this presentation shines in include, shallow vegetation, such as eel grass flats and lily pad fields.  You can fish this bait along the edge and let it just tick the vegetation or cast it into the grass and bring it through the cover; this will look like a baitfish or bluegill fleeing a predator. 

The two other areas of shallow water cover that a Texas-rigged swimbait is a good choice are laydowns and boat docks.  The bass that inhabit these areas see countless jigs, spinnerbaits and even shallow running crankbaits.  So if you can present something different to them, you are likely to have some great days on the water. Around boat docks there is a plethora of baitfish and bluegill, so a swimbait mimicking that forage will tempt bass to come out from underneath the dock to hit your presentation. 

Some of the tackle that you’ll need for this presentation includes a hook, the two options you have include a standard extra wide gap hook with a small tungsten weight in front of it, or a specialty swimbait hook that has a corkscrew up at the hook eye and a weight on the shaft or bend of the hook. My two choices would be a Lazer TroKar Magworm (TK120) 4/0 or 5/0 hook, depending on the size of the swimbait, with a 1/16 or 1/8 oz. tungsten weight pegged in front of the hook.  I’ll use this setup when fishing in and around vegetation, as it will come through the cover with ease.  When fishing around boat docks or laydowns, I’ll opt to go with a swimbait hook like the TroKar Magnum Weight Swimbait (TK170) hook. 

Regardless of which rigging option I go with, I’ll use a long 7’6” Witch Doctor Tackle Voodoo II Medium Heavy Power Fast Action rod. I can make long casts, feel exactly what my bait is doing and then have the power to get that bass out of the heavy cover.  For line, I’ll either use 15 or 17 lb. test Seaguar Inviz X Fluorocarbon line, as it is very abrasion resistant and I can make long casts with it. 

Another reason that the swimbait is so versatile is that it makes a great trailer for several lures.  Using a swimbait as a trailer on a swim jig, vibrating jig or spinnerbait is something different than a standard grub, thus giving your bait a bigger profile and different than what other anglers are presenting to the bass. 

Since the lures I mentioned above are used to replicate baitfish or bluegills the majority of the time, adding a swimbait as a trailer makes a lot of sense because it completes the lure package and makes it look very natural in the water.  Two of my favorites are the Zoom Swimmin’ Super Fluke Jr. for a smaller lure profile in the water, or the bigger Boot Tail Fluke to show the bass a big meal. 

Selecting colors for swimbaits as a jig trailer can go in two different directions.  The first being, match the hatch as they say, meaning if you are fishing in clear water and the bass want a natural presentation, then go with a swimbait that looks like what the bass are eating.  If they are eating shad, go with a shad colored swimbait, and if they are eating bluegills, go with bait that has more of a brown, green and blue color pattern to it. 

The other color selection possibility is when fishing in stained water, go with a swimbait that stands out and brings attention to your lure.  Such as when fishing a white swim jig or spinnerbait in the spring on a stained river, use a chartreuse colored swimbait, this will really make your bait pop and catch the bass’s attention. 

A subtle soft plastic swimbait that I rely on is a soft plastic jerkbait, like the Zoom Super Fluke.  This bait has the body of a baitfish and a uniquely shaped fork tail, that when left still, will move ever so slightly.  Fishing a soft plastic jerkbait like this is ideal when an active school of bass has shut down feeding.  Casting a white soft plastic jerkbait out to the school, letting it sink down, and then ever so slightly working it back to the boat with minor twitches of the rod tip will drive hungry bass wild. 

I will also employ a soft plastic jerkbait in areas where other topwater presentations would get hung up.  A weedless soft plastic jerkbait can be fished through heavy vegetation and dead sticked in the sweet spot to coax a tight-lipped bass into biting. 

It is important to use an extra wide gap hook when fishing a soft plastic jerkbait, as the bait has a lot of plastic that needs to slide up the hook when you set the hook.  If I’m fishing light line on a spinning setup, I’ll use the standard wire Lazer Trokar TK-110 Extra Wide Gap, but when I’m fishing around heavy cover and with baitcasting gear, I’ll go up to the TK-120 Magworm hook. 

If you are looking to add a new fishing presentation to your list of options this season, give swimbaits a shot. They can help you catch bass in tough situations, along with help increase your chances of catching that big bass you’ve been looking for. 

Glenn Walker has been fishing tournaments for over ten years, spreading his passion and knowledge of the sport via articles and videos.  He keeps busy fishing events across Minnesota and on the Mississippi River.  Glenn’s sponsors include:  Bass Boat Technologies, Humminbird, Mercury Marine, Minn Kota, Plano, Rayjus, Seaguar, Snag Proof, The Rod Glove, TroKar, War Eagle Custom Lures, Witch Doctor Tackle, Wright & McGill and Zoom Baits.  For more information check out glennwalkerfishing.com or on Facebook at facebook.com/glennwalkerfishing. 

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Early Season Trout

By: Blake Tollefson

 

It’s been a long winter, and based on the long term forecast, it’s not showing any signs of ending soon. Many anglers are looking to scratch that open water itch, however, most of the state is still ice and snow covered. Fortunately, for Wisconsin fishermen, a large portion of the state’s trout streams are open during the early catch and release season. 

The Badger State’s early season runs from January 5, 2019 to May 3, 2019. Only artificial lures are allowed. 

A light fly fishing set up (4-5 WT) and a series of small assortment of flies will be sure to be put some trout in the net. 

Don’t have a fly rod? Not a problem! Using an ultralight spinning “panfish” set up will suite you just fine. A 5.5 FT to 7 FT ultralight to light rod and reel will suffice. Plastic paddletails and twister tails, along with small crankbaits and inline spinners, are very effective for targeting stream trout year round.

The cooler temps are preventing a lot of runoff thus far. Fish locations can be relatively sporadic throughout the smaller streams, but be sure to focus on areas with some structure. Remember to be mobile; if a spot doesn’t produce within a few casts, move on to the next one. 

With these cold temperatures, be prepared to release fish quickly. Try to keep fish in the water as much as possible. Have a hook remover and camera handy, so you’re able to snap a picture and return the fish to the water quickly. 

Most streams throughout the state are open for the early catch and release season, but be sure to check the Wisconsin DNR website for your area. For more information on the early catch and release season and trout fishing in Wisconsin, see the links below.

Inland Trout Regulations: https://dnr.wi.gov/topic/fishing/regulations/troutregs.html

The WI DNR provides county maps with all trout steams listed: http://dnr.wi.gov/topic/fishing/trout/streammaps.html

WI DNR Catchable Trout Stocking: https://dnr.wi.gov/topic/fishing/trout/CatchableTrout.html

 

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Morning Trail Mix

Tuesday Morning Trail Mix

Tuesday is here and so is the Trail Mix

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Blackfish Rain Gear Product Release

New Product Line Release

New Blackfish^® Rain Gear Line Launched

Rogers, Minn. (March 1, 2018) –  Outdoor enthusiasts, especially anglers, are starved for a quality rain suit that is waterproof but also has the breathability to keep them dry from the inside. Two new rain suits from Blackfish Gear promise to do just that. Using a cutting-edge breathable membrane, these suits utilize technology that lets heat and body vapors escape while providing 100% waterproof protection from rain. 

This breathable, waterproof technology by eVent fabrics is the most advanced fabric in the industry with one of the highest combined breathability and waterproof ratings in outerwear. Simply put, we have created a rain suit that helps you stay dry from your own sweat. And with a Lifetime Warranty, these premium rain suits are only made better by the features that augment the primary function…

Aspire Rain Jacket and Bibs

The Aspire Jacket is a premium, lightweight waterproof jacket, offering a unique combination of breathability and water resistance not usually found in lightweight outerwear.

• Lightweight and packable for easy transport
• Perfect for warm weather use
• Unlike other rain suits, frequent washing renews the breathability factor by cleaning the microscopic pores that allow body vapor and heat to escape

• eVent DVAlpine 3-layer construction
• YKK Vislon Aquaguard Zippers
• 100% taped seams keep water out at high speeds
• Removable hood, multiple  cinch adjustments
• Adjustable cuff with stretch PVC help prevent water from running down the sleeve
• Raglan sleeve for maximum range of movement and comfort when casting
• Waterproof rating 20K
• Breathability rating 15.6 K
• Available in two color ways and sizes Small – 5XL

The Aspire Bibs have all the key features of the jacket as well as

• Adjustable waist cinch helps keep weight off the shoulder straps, reducing shoulder fatigue
• Magnetic quick-release shoulder strap buckle
• Articulated knee for sitting comfort
• Chest pockets for cell phone or keys
• Waterproof taped crotch gusset
• Knee-height leg zippers for easy on-off

Endure Rain Parka and Bibs

The Endure Parka is a premium, tournament level garment that offers an uncommon combination of waterproof protection , breathability, and warmth. With one of the highest breathability factors in the outdoors, the Endure let’s your body breath while keeping rain out— keeping you warm and dry all day from your own perspiration. For those that need all-day protection, choose the Endure.Waterproof, durable and abrasion resistant

• Insulater for warmth, it’s a perfect cold weather parka 
• Unlike other rain suits, frequent washing renews the breathability factor by cleaning the microscopic pores that allow body vapor and heat to escape
• 100% taped seams and storm flap keep water out at high speeds 
• Multiple cinch adjustments
• Adjustable cuff with stretch PVC
• 3M Scotchlite reflective logos 
• Raglan sleeve for maximum range of movement when casting
• eVent DVExpedition 3-layer construction
• YKK Vislon Aquaguard Zippers 
• Waterproof rating 30K
• Breathability rating 11K
• Available in two color ways and sizes Small – 5XL

The Endure Bibs have all the key features of the jacket as well as

• Adjustable waist cinch helps keep weight off the shoulder straps, reducing shoulder fatigue
• Magnetic quick-release shoulder strap buckle
• Articulated knee for sitting comfort
• Chest pockets for cell phone or keys
• Waterproof taped crotch gusset
• Knee-height leg zippers for easy on-off

You can’t choose the weather. But you can choose rain gear that keeps you dry, comfortable and protected. See the entire line and the technology behind it at BlackfishGear.com.

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Spring Turkey Tips

What to Do When Your Turkey Hunting Plan Blows Up  

By: Brian Lovett  

Having a plan always results in better turkey hunting. And sometimes, gobblers follow that plan. Other days, however, they toss the playbook aside and leave you scratching your head.  

But the game shouldn’t end there. When a longbeard throws you a curve, switch tactics to keep your hunt alive. Let’s examine several common broken-plan scenarios and look at how you can adapt.  

Destination Denied 

Instead of chasing gobbles or slipping under roost trees, many hunters prefer to set up at likely spots or places they’ve observed birds — food plots, ag fields, acorn-strewn flats or shady loafing areas — and wait for turkeys to come to them. It’s a solid strategy — until your gobbler doesn’t show up. That prompts a question: Do I wait longer or pursue another bird?  

The answer depends on turkey activity and the quality of your scouting information. If you’ve seen nothing at your hotspot but a bird is gobbling his wattles off 150 yards away, the answer is obvious: Go to him. Conversely, if you’ve seen a longbeard and hens cross through a pasture gate several consecutive days, you’re probably better off to sit there patiently. Solutions are rarely that obvious, though.  

Typically, I try to resolve the dilemma by provoking a gobble. That doesn’t mean I hammer an area with incessant yelping or locator calling. Instead, I run through several calling series with various calls, gradually building the intensity or trying to portray different scenarios. If one call or series generates a reply, I gauge the situation. Did the turkey cut me off? If so, I might fire him up. Was he relatively close? He might be coming, or I can at least work him from that setup. Was he distant, or was his response tepid? Then it’s probably best to course his location and make a move.  

Whatever you do, make a decision. Hesitation and uncertainty never serve you well in the turkey woods. Resolve to stay put or strike out elsewhere, and then analyze the results.  

The Tease 

Every turkey hunter has battled a bird that flew down, gobbled lustily and then seemingly drew a line in the sand and wouldn’t commit. It’s frustrating, but you have many options to save the hunt.  

First, try to determine why the bird won’t approach. Hearing scratching or soft yelping near the gobbler provides an easy answer: hens. In that case, stop yelping at the tom and try to engage his ladies. If that doesn’t work, determine where they’re headed, and try to circle around them and cut them off.  

Solo gobblers that won’t commit offer a tougher challenge. Often, we blame obstructions such as fences, creeks or thick cover. However, turkeys cross such obstacles every day, and a fired-up longbeard will duck under a fence or fly a creek. Still, changing setups is never a bad idea. Turkeys move throughout the day, so yelping as you move to or from setups seems natural. Calling frequently from one spot might seem unnatural. Sometimes, easing 50 yards to another tree, calling as you go, might prompt a gobbler to break. Walking away while calling and then slipping back toward the turkey can also work, provided you’re careful not to bump him.  

I usually figure a gobbler stops advancing because of something I’m doing, so I’ll switch tactics. If I’ve been calling sparingly, I’ll ratchet up the intensity, trying to work the bird into a lather. If I’ve been calling a lot — usually the case — I’ll tone down my approach or stop calling. That might be the best approach to breaking a stubborn bird. By shutting up for a half-hour or longer, you can play on his social curiosity, prompting him to come closer for a look. Be careful, though, as he’ll often do so silently.  

If nothing works, I let the situation play out and see what the gobbler does. Observing his reaction puts me closer to tagging him later.  

Bye-Bye Bird 

Some turkeys have a sense of humor, gobbling at your calling as they travel directly away from your setup. That’s maddening but not impossible. As with a stationary gobbler, try to determine if the tom has hens. If so, call to them. If that fails, figure out their travel route, plan an intercepting course and try to cut off the group.  

If the gobbler seems to be alone, refer back to your scouting and guess where he might be going. Perhaps he’s headed toward a meadow or open ridge where he can strut or find hens. Beat him to the spot, and wait at least an hour for him. Maybe he’s just meandering. Back out, switch spots and try to strike him again. Remember, movement is natural, and perhaps you were calling from a spot where the turkey didn’t feel comfortable.  

When a turkey walks away gobbling but then shuts up, be patient. It makes no sense to pursue a bird when you don’t know or can’t guess his whereabouts. Let the turkey do his thing, and try to strike him later. Or ease out, find another likely calling setup and start the game again.  

If you fail, replay the hunt in your mind, and plot a new approach for the next day. Eventually, you might stumble onto his destination or travel route, or figure out what he likes to hear.   

The Boys Club 

Now and then, especially later in the season, two or more gobblers might ignore your calling but sound off frequently as they join forces. If you’re between those birds, great. Let them do their thing, and hope they come closer. If not, switch gears.  

Try gobbling or jake-yelping at them. A longbeard might not be interested in hens, but he won’t forget his place in the ever-dynamic turkey social structure. Gobbling or jake-yelping might prompt a gobbler to rush in, looking to kick the tail of a rival. Or, it could reassure a turkey that seems more interested in male company that his buddies are waiting for him. Remember, gobblers hear the vocalizations of male turkeys as often as those of hens, so this strategy seems natural. Of course, you must be prudent when gobbling or jake-yelping. Don’t try it on public land or heavily hunted private ground. Be certain no other hunters are close enough to mistake your calling for the real thing.  

If switching up doesn’t work, try to keep the turkeys gobbling with turkey or locator calls, and determine their travel route or destination. You can always relocate and try them again.   

Mother-Ship Evacuation 

You’ll often encounter large traditional roosts where turkeys spend the night but leave soon after flydown and don’t return until fly-up. Such spots are especially common in areas with lots of open fields. Setting up near these sites and trying to yelp birds in works sometimes, but turkeys are often in a hurry to find feeding or strutting areas away from the roost, leaving you behind. If you can’t find good ambush sites, you have two options.  

First, plan a pre-dawn roost invasion. Slip into the area well before dawn — sometimes two or three hours before flydown — and wait. Try to get directly underneath turkeys in hopes that they fly down in range. This can be extremely difficult, especially during a bright moon, in wet or brushy spots, or when dealing with large groups of birds. Scout the area at midday to determine the easiest, stealthiest approach and setup. Use a rake to remove leaves and debris from your planned approach. Set up a blind to hide your movements the next morning. Turkeys won’t always hit the ground in front of your barrel, but you’ll likely see or hear where they go, which might provide the missing piece of the puzzle.  

If a fly-down ambush isn’t viable, hunt the birds during the afternoon or evening. That doesn’t mean you should sit at the roost tree and kill a gobbler as he prepares to fly up, although that works. I prefer not to hunt them that way, as one gunshot or ill-timed move can blow up a roost for several days or even the season. Instead, sit at a likely approach route, and try to intercept birds as they meander back to roost. You can usually determine their travel path by glassing feeding turkeys during afternoons or listening for them right before flyup. Then, set up at a good spot, call sparingly and see what happens.   

Why’d He Do That?  

Turkeys don’t read hunting magazines or how-to advice. They’re turkeys, and unpredictability is in their nature. Sometimes, there’s no apparent reason for their playbook-busting behavior. Watch. Listen. Think. Consider the conditions and phase of the breeding season. Try something different. The only sure-fire way to not kill a gobbler that foils your best plans is to be stubborn and stick with an unsuccessful strategy.  

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Targeting Basin Crappies

 

Basin Crappies

Winter is in full swing. Panfish, and crappies in particular, are some of the most targeted species throughout the winter months. 

In general, crappies are a relatively nomadic species and can be found across countless types of structure throughout a body of water. This includes weeds, wood, rocks, and basins to name a few. Perhaps the most consistent bite throughout the winter months occurs in the main basin of lake.  In fishing terms, a basin is the deepest, relatively featureless portion of lake. 

(Map courtesy of Garmin ActiveCaptain)

A typical fall will drive schools of crappies from their summer haunts to the basin of the lake, where fish can be found suspended throughout the water column.  Predictable depths for winter basin crappies range from approximately 20-40 feet of water. However, crappies can be found at depths much shallower or deeper. 

Most relatively small, natural lakes share a similar pattern so replicating results can become increasingly easier. These patterns and techniques related to winter crappies can also apply to flowages and impoundments, although they may not prove to be as consistent. 

(Map courtesy of Garmin ActiveCaptain)

Using a handheld GPS, I start my search in the deepest portion of any main lake basin. My first hole is typically in the center of the basin and work my way towards the edge of the hole. On an average day I will drill around 20-30 holes before I start looking for fish.

If you’re fishing a heavily pressured lake with a lot of fishing traffic, I would recommend starting the search on the least populated portion of the basin. I personally won’t venture within 100 yards, give or take, of the closest shack. 

Prior to actually wetting a line, rely on your electronics to determine if fish are present in the vicinity. Swing the transducer back and forth across the hole to see if fish are nearby. This can also help determine which hole you should proceed to next. Travel hole to hole until you start marking fish.  If you’re not marking fish, keep drilling. It’s not uncommon for anglers to drill more than 100 holes in search of active fish. 

Presentation is key to success on the ice. Tungsten jigs in the 3-5 mm category excel in situations involving deep water crappies. Micro plastics are absolutely king when it comes to basin crappies, in my opinion. Most major brands have countless options designed to imitate food sources crappies commonly eat. They also allow for fish after fish without replacing “bait.”

Recommendations for fishing with plastics: (1) Pair the plastics with appropriately sized jigs.  (2) Fish the plastic as designed. If it’s meant to be fished horizontally, then ensure the lure remains horizontal. If necessary rotate the knot on the hook so the entire setup remains perpendicular to your line.  (3) Have confidence. Confidence is key when fishing artificial lures. 

Rods & reels are often overlooked when it comes to ice; but having a quality set up is just as vital on the hard water as it is on the soft water. Opt for something stout enough to handle quality fish, yet sensitive enough to feel and see the lightest bites. There are countless options on the market that’ll meet the average anglers needs. I opt for rods around the 30” range because they allow me to fish comfortably and effectively both inside and outside of a fish house. Power Noodle style rods, as well as rods tipped with spring bobbers make a huge difference in detecting the lightest bites. 

Inline reels also offer some advantages when targeting finicky panfish through the ice. The reel is specifically designed to prevent line twist which in turn won’t result in a presentation spinning 25 feet below the surface. 

From a conservation perspective, it is vital to be cognizant of the depths you are fishing in. Pulling fish from depths of greater than 20-25 feet can result in barotrauma. Barotrauma incidents are likely to be fatal to the fish. Even though a fish swims away, that doesn’t mean it’ll necessarily survive. If you’re fishing in deeper water, plan to keep some fish for a meal. 

These patterns will typically remain pretty consistent throughout most of the winter months, until panfish make the move to skinnier water in the spring. Rely on the tools available, drill some holes, offer the right presentation for the situation, and you’ll be sure to put some fish topside this winter.

Good luck out there!

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Happy Valentines Day…

Loves in the Air…

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